To use sewing patterns comfortably, it helps to understand a few basic pattern symbols first.
Pattern symbols can vary slightly depending on the country, designer, or sewing style, but there are several common symbols that appear in most sewing patterns.
Let’s look at some of the most important ones beginners should know 😊
Cut on Fold
“Cut on Fold” means the pattern piece should be placed directly along folded fabric instead of cutting two separate pieces.
This helps create symmetrical pieces.
"Cut on Fold” markings can look slightly different depending on the pattern style, country, or designer.
The bracket-style version is especially common in North American home sewing patterns. In Sewing Stroll patterns, I primarily use the double semi-circle symbol often seen in industrial sewing patterns.
Grainline
The long line with arrows on a pattern piece is called the grainline.
Some patterns use arrows on both ends, while others may use only one arrow.
This line should be aligned parallel to the fabric’s lengthwise grain (the vertical direction of the fabric).
The lengthwise grain is usually more stable and has less stretch than the crosswise grain (horizontal direction).
Fabric cut at a 45° angle is called the bias. This direction has much more stretch and drape, which is why it’s often used for flowing garments like flare skirts.
Following the grainline helps the finished project keep its intended shape and structure.
If grainlines are ignored during cutting, fabric can twist or stretch unevenly after washing.
Notches
Notches are mainly used to help match sections together accurately during sewing.
They are useful not only for straight seams, but also for curved seams.
Even when two curved pieces look like they should not fit together, matching the notches correctly often helps the curves align smoothly during sewing.
Notches can look different depending on the pattern style or designer, so it’s always a good idea to check the pattern symbols before sewing.
In Sewing Stroll patterns, notches are usually marked as short red lines about 3/8" (1 cm) long.
Seam Allowance
Some sewing patterns already include seam allowance, while others require you to add it yourself.
Always check before cutting fabric.
Seam allowance lines are usually shown as thin solid lines, although some patterns may also use dashed lines depending on the designer or pattern style.
In industrial sewing patterns, dashed lines are more commonly used to indicate folding lines rather than seam allowance lines.
Beginner Tip ✨
Before cutting fabric:
read pattern labels carefully
check symbol meanings first
compare the instruction guide with the pattern pieces
Understanding these small symbols can make sewing much less confusing later.
